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My Life
Cooking


Growing up, my days were filled with food and family. Reflecting on my childhood and adolescence, the images that come to mind are of family gatherings and Chinese banquets. My first book, Kylie Kwong: Recipes and Stories, introduces the wonderful home cooking that nourished me as a child and helped shape my future.

My professional cooking career began with a four-year stint as head chef of Sydney's Wockpool, a modern Asian noodle bar and restaurant owned by Neil Perry and Trish Richards, then from mid-1998 I headed the kitchens of two cafes in Sydney, bills and bills2. Inspired by the strong sense of individuality that made these places stand out from the crowd, I began to dream about having my own restaurant one day.

In 1999, I went on a life-changing trip to China. Of course, food featured prominently: in Shanghai, we had the juiciest pork and crab dumplings; our senses were stunned by the dizzying aroma and vibrant flavour of the Sichuan peppercorns in their home province; and pot-stickers from a roadside stall were the freshest I'd ever eaten – chewy, silky and crunchy all at once! But it was a visit to a traditional Shanghai-style tea house that really moved me. A Chinese tea house is a place where family and friends meet, to spend time with each other and drink Chinese tea. The one we visited was an enchanting room furnished with polished rosewood tables, complete with matching stools that fitted neatly under the tables like a jigsaw puzzle. Scenes from Chinese history were carved into the woodwork, delicate red-tasselled lanterns hung from the ceiling, and the windows had ornate frames and brass latches. I felt like I was inside a beautiful lacquered box, exquisite in every detail. I wanted to capture this moment and release its essence in my own restaurant . . .

When Billy Kwong opened its doors, in May 2000, with Bill Granger as a business partner, we breathed life into our vision of a small, energetic and vibrant eating house that served fantastically fresh Chinese food. We wanted it to be somewhere people could meet, talk, eat and drink in a casual, comfortable, nurturing atmosphere. Most importantly, we wanted the total experience to be wonderfully invigorating for all the senses. Many years on, I can honestly say that I still love everything about the restaurant – I am the sole owner now and I enjoy the challenge of running my own business.

In late 2002, I was approached about appearing in my own TV series. Without quite knowing what I was letting myself in for, but keen to share my passions with a wider audience, I leapt at the chance. Kylie Kwong: Heart and Soul traced my life with food, family and friends – from hanging out in my uncle's noodle factory as a child, to cooking a tagine in the backyard and the pleasures of a steamboat party.  From the response to the TV series, and through talking to customers at Billy Kwong, I began to realise how daunted some people feel at the prospect of cooking Chinese food at home. So with my next book, Simple Chinese Cooking, along with its accompanying TV series, I sought to demystify the intricate techniques and exotic ingredients that have produced one of the world's great cuisines.

Recently, travel has been a big part of my life. As well as leading specialist food tours for World Expeditions, I have travelled extensively in China, Tibet and Bhutan researching, writing and filming. My latest book, My China: A Feast for all the Senses, reflects these experiences, continuing my exploration of the culinary delights of the land of my ancestors, while taking a deeply personal journey into the history, culture and peoples of China and Tibet. An accompanying TV series is nearing completion.

Over the years, I have had the good fortune of being inspired and influenced by some great cooks and food writers – from my mother to Alice Waters, Stephanie Alexander, Neil Perry, Stefano and Franca Manfredi, Maggie Beer, Joanna Savill, Fay Maschler, Jamie Oliver, Elizabeth David, Richard Olney and Patience Gray. Their considered views, their honouring of quality and excellence, and their flair and flamboyance have seeped into my pores and metamorphosed into my own beliefs.

My cooking style has also evolved from living in Australia, where we have access to some of the world's finest produce, including seafood from pristine waters, a bountiful range of Asian fruits, vegetables and herbs, free-range poultry and organically raised beef. I firmly believe that fresh is best, but I also believe that our food choices should be ethical, sustainable and supportive of both the natural and human environment. Through my ongoing support for the work of organisations such as Oxfam, Fair Trade and the Australian Marine Conservation Society, I am determined to do all I can to make the world a better place.